“Marching on its Stomach”
Diet and Messing of the Army in Upper Canada in 1812
by Robert Henderson
Despite the abundance of literature on the logistics of
supplying troops in British North American garrisons during the
War of 1812,[1]
little has been written on the soldier's diet and the role of
his mess in organizing food preparation and consumption.[2]
This article will focus on these areas and explore the furniture
and utensils required to prepare and serve food in barracks.
Since published material on the supply of provisions prior to
the war is scarce, some information will also be provided on
this subject, with particular emphasis placed on the Niagara
frontier garrisons.
Messing Arrangements
Each company of soldiers was divided into messes which allowed
men to pool their rations and rotate as cooks. Messes were
established in the British Army to ensure that the soldier did
not starve himself or squander his meal money away on gambling
or drink.[3]
This purpose is illustrated in an account by a soldier of the
94th Regiment in 1809:
We arrived in Aberdeen, after a march of ten days,
where we had better barracks, and cheaper provisions than in
Dunbar; but the barracks being too small, a number of our men
were billeted in the town, and not being in the mess when
pay-day came, it was a common thing for many of them to spend
what they had to support them in drink; and some of them were so
infatuated as to sell even their allowance of bread for the same
purpose. They were then obliged (to use their own phraseology)
to "Box Harry," until the next pay-day; and some of them carried
this to such a length, that it was found necessary to bring them
into barracks, to prevent them from starving themselves.[4]
The size of each mess varied considerably: some regiments
envisioned the ideal mess size to be between ten and eighteen
men,[5]
while others practised messing as an entire company.[6]
When not in the field, the 85th Regiment ordered its companies
to establish messes by barrack rooms.[7]
Messing by rooms was also practised in the Embodied Militia
stationed in Fredericton in 1813.[8]
It is likely regiments on the Niagara frontier also favoured
this form of messing at the opening of the war, especially with
the establishment of soldiers' kitchens at the principal
garrison, Fort George. The development of new barracks in the
1790s and 1800s included kitchens or cooking places for each
company. These new additions were best served by messing in
great numbers, without exceeding a company in size.[9]
When in the field or rented accommodations, the size of the
soldiers mess was reduced. For example, In the case of the
100th Regiment each mess had fourteen or fifteen members.[10]
Married soldiers were usually permitted to pool
their rations with their families, apart from the company
messes. If, however, a wife could not provide for herself and
her children and was "found to encroach on the man's
subsistence", the soldier was placed in a mess and the woman
turned away.[11]
As a preventative measure, the army issued a half ration of food
to each woman and a quarter ration to each child.[12]
These rations were limited to twelve women and their children
per company stationed on foreign service.[13]
It was expected that the rations would be topped up by the
family through provisions purchased privately.
In the case of unmarried soldiers, each mess had a
head or president. He was a corporal, chosen man or older
soldier, and his responsibility was to ensure that the men sat
down to dinner dressed as soldiers and that each was in
possession of a fork, knife, spoon, and plate.[14]
It should be noted that sergeants usually messed separately from
the other men, complete with their own president, mess
regulations, and perhaps a servant. Regardless of rank, each
soldier contributed six to six and a half pence a week to the
mess to cover expenses such as messing utensils not provided by
the Barracks Master.[15]
To track the expenses and charges against each
soldier a company weekly mess book was kept.[16]
This book contained: an account of the expenditure of that part
of the soldiers' pay, which is appropriated to messing. On the
left hand, or debit side, the sums expended in vegetables,
washing, etc. are to be regularly entered, and the quantities,
price, etc. of all articles, are always to be detailed. On the
right hand, or credit side, the names of the non-commissioned
officers, trumpeters, drummers, and private men, are to be
entered,- the number of days each man is messed, and the amount
of expenses of his messing at the fixed rate per day.[17
An original mess book for the 74th Regiment has survived and is
in the National Archives of Canada.[18]
Entries into this book were the responsibility of the pay
sergeant and were regularly inspected by the Regiment's
quartermaster.[19]
Regulations and official military opinion yield only
a partial picture of messing arrangements and food preparation.
Though valid, they lack the human element influencing the
accomplishment of duties. One officer's description of a group
of soldiers preparing food around a fire during the Peninsular
War provides further insight:
fry...one [soldier] making dough boys (flour and water
mixed) swearing all the time at one for not producing a ing
pan, at another for getting in his light; another giving a
young soldier a thump for crossing between him and the fire
while he plastered his blistered feet. The poor creature is
turning round to beg his pardon, when he treads upon
another, who threatens to upset him if he does not sit
down. A woman who is undressing by his side (perhaps the
wife of one of the party) raises her shrill voice and blasts
him for not being quick. An old soldier sits smoking his
pipe and frying the mutton or skimming the pot, while a
dirty fist seizes the mutton, and another equally so lays
hold of it and it is torn asunder by a knife with edge and
back alike. The whole is shortly devoured and they lie down
to sleep in their blankets.[20]
Similar conflicts would have arisen in garrison kitchens,
especially with each family preparing their meals along side the
mess cooks. One soldier in garrison expressed dislike of one
woman on strength, "who used to make a great disturbance about
the fire in the cooking way."[21]
Conflicts in the kitchen continued throughout the first half of
the 19th century. The constant quarrelling amongst married
people in the soldiers' kitchen instigated barracks reforms in
the 1850s establishing separate cooking places for each family.[22]
Diet and Food Preparation
Every morning at nine
o'Clock[23]
the men were served breakfast consisting of bread, along with
milk, soup,[24]
tea, or saloop, and occasionally butter.[25]
Some supplemented their breakfast rations with
privately-purchased food such as cheese or pork.[26]
In the afternoon, between twelve-thirty and one o'clock, the
soldiers would then sit down to dinner.[27]
Before the sitting, the tables were draped with cloths and set
with plates, knives, forks, and spoons; only then would the meal
be served. Once seated, the men were expected to rise from
their meals only when the officer of the day entered the room to
receive a mess report from the orderly sergeant.[28]
One regiment described dinner as consisting of "soup well
thickened with meal, flour, or rice, and with the meat there
must be a sufficiency of vegetables."[29]
However, the standard daily ration established in British North
America changed continually. By the time of the War of 1812
each soldier was being supplied with:
1 lb. of flour
1 lb. of fresh beef or 9 1/7 oz. of pork
1 3/7 oz. of pork or 6/7 oz. of butter
1 lb. of flour
3/7 pint of pease
1 1/7 oz. of rice[30]
If hospitalized, the soldier received a pint of milk porridge or
rice gruel for breakfast; meat, potatoes, and bread for dinner;
and a pint of broth from the meat for supper.[31]
In case of fever, animal food was not allowed. Instead a "spoon
diet" was provided which is described as tea for breakfast, "a
quarter pound of bread made into panado or pudding with as much
milk or sago" for dinner, and tea for supper.[32]
For soldiers eating with their families apart from their
comrades, they typically enjoyed a breakfast of milk and bread;
a dinner of meat, vegetables, salt, and bread; and a supper of
milk and potatoes or broth, and bread.[33]
Supper was not allotted for the unmarried soldiers.
While the preferred types of meat by military
officials were beef and mutton,[34]
mutton does not appear to have been issued to the soldiers in
Upper Canada. Instead it was likely purchased privately by the
troops[35]
and kept for special dinners held by the men on occasions such
as Christmas, royal family member birthdays, and battle
anniversaries. One soldier noted that having too many
celebrations, as ordered by the regiment's commander, usually
left the members of the mess continually in debt.[36]
On the other hand, beef was in continuous fresh
supply for the troops in Upper Canada. At the garrison of Fort
George, fresh beef of "ox or heifer"[37]
was supplied "in quarter" pieces[38]
from the locality.[39]
This was the result of a decision made by London in 1802 which
stated that: "the facility of supplying the king's troops
serving in his Majesty's American colonies and possessions with
fresh beef and other articles of necessity upon the spot, at a
much cheaper rate than salt provisions can be sent from
hence..."[40]
The preceding year, a prospective beef supplier named Robert
Hamilton, presented the following to the commissary officer at
Fort George:
Our country has now a considerable quantity of beef to
spare. Several of the most respectable farmers, who have
been consulted say they could engage to deliver weekly or
twice a week during the warm weather a sufficient quantity
of fresh good merchantable beef for the supply of the
garrison of Fort George.[41]
While the commissary officer supported this proposal, he did not
think "any absolute dependence should be placed on this supply."[42]
The Commissary Department took various measures to provide each
garrison with 100 days supply of salted Irish beef.[43]
These provisions seemingly remained in storage until the opening
of the war.[44]
By 1803, the commissary's scepticism on Canadian supply sources
seemed to lessen. General Hunter, commander of the forces in
the Canadas, received a letter from Richard Cartwright in
Kingston describing the impact of army supply contracts on Upper
Canada's beef economy:
...the country abounds in cattle and the measure adopted by
your excellency of supplying the garrisons for part of the
year with fresh beef will further encourage the breeding of
them, and the liberal price received for the small quantity
sent to Lower Canada the last year, if continued for the
present season, will make people here in future go largely
into the business of barrelling of beef. This detail though
it shows that this important manufacture is still in its
infancy, shows also that it is progressive by increasing and
we may reasonably conclude that it will continue to do so,
if not checked either by unfavourable seasons, which
destroying the crops of grain or hay will deprive the farmer
of the means of feeding his swine or cattle...[45]
Cartwright suggested Upper Canada could eventually become the
sole source of beef and other food stuffs to troops not only in
the Canadas but in Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, and, ultimately
the West Indies.[46]
Unfortunately, after 1803, a series of poor harvests in the
Canadas occurred, reducing Upper Canada's food surpluses and the
producers' ambitions.[47]
During the War of 1812, salted provisions, flour, and peas for
the troops in the Atlantic provinces were once again being
supplied from the Canadas.[48]
The West Indies
market remained elusive.
One factor Cartwright did not consider when
estimating the reliability of the province's beef production was
war. When the United States declared war in 1812, all
able-bodied Canadians were drawn from the fields and into the
ranks of the militia. Regulars were also drawn from other parts
of British North America into the threatened upper province.
The result was a substantial increase in the size of the
garrisons being supplied and a coinciding decrease in farm
production. By 1813, Upper Canada could no longer keep up with
the army's demand for beef. Military officials turned to the
United States to secure supplies which served two purposes: not
only would needed supplies be obtained, but drawing food from
the United States also reduced the enemy's resources along the
border.[49]
This was accomplished with success as thousands of heads of
cattle were being driven into Canada from New York and Vermont.
One American citizen along the St. Lawrence noted in 1814: "It
is incredible what quantities of cattle and sheep are driven
into Canada. We can hardly get anything for love or money. The
day before yesterday upwards to 100 Oxen went up through
Prescott [Upper Canada] and yesterday above 200."[50]
Both American smugglers and increased supplies from Britain
sustained the soldiers' beef supply to the end of the war.
In addition to beef, records show the soldiers were
consuming vast quantities of salted pork produced in the Canadas.
A domestic supply of pork had the same effect as in the case of
beef, that is the reduction in imports of barrelled pork from
Great Britain. The following is a listing of expenses estimated
by Cartwright for making one barrel of pork:
"to make a barrel of 208 lbs. those who
have paid minute attention to the subject
say it will require at least 216 lbs. as
bought from the farmer, which at 3 d per lb.
is.........................................................
£2 14s 0d
Cask and
cooperage............................................................................................................
6s 9d
Cutting up and
packing.......................................................................................................
1s 3d
Salt and
Saltpetre.................................................................................................................
8s 6d
Warehouse rent, attendance, and labour
for weighing
etc.....................................................................................................................
1s 0d
The pork being bought in November, six months
must elapse before it can be sent to market.
Interest for that time on £3 10s 6d
is..................................................................................
2s 1d
TOTAL........... £3 13s 7d"[51]
However, many of the contractors used considerably less pork in
each barrel than the previous list states. In 1807, the
Commissary weighed the numerous barrels of pork and flour being
supplied by Upper Canadian contractors and found that the Army
was being short-changed; the deficiencies were ordered to be
rectified by the contractors.[52]
The Commissary required each barrel to be composed of "Prime
Mess Pork" and hold 52 four-pound pieces.[53]
It appears from archaeological finds and earlier military
contracts that there were no pig's heads or feet included in the
barrels.[54]
If the pork was issued lean or spoiled, the soldiers reserved
the right to reject it.[55]
Meat was prepared in one of two ways: boiled and
roasted, or baked. Scottish soldiers tended to boil their meat,
while the English preferred roasting. One military official
writing on the subject in the 1790s thought "roasted or baked
meat will occasion thirst more than boiled food and broth;
except the latter are very salty."[56]
By the beginning the War of 1812 boiling had taken over as the
most common method of preparing meat. One soldier of the 7th
Regiment estimated that three-quarters of a pound of beef with
the bone yielded a pint of broth to each man.[57]
Sometimes oatmeal and potatoes were included with the meat into
soups or bouille, especially in Scottish garrisons.[58]
Other favoured vegetables in the soldier's diet included
cabbage, peas, and beans, and each were prepared as the cook saw
fit.[59]
Unfortunately, rotating cooks were usually inexperienced:
The fundamental rule, in the culinary art, consists in
roasting quick, and boiling slow. It does not appear to
be known in the army: the soldier's pot always boils
with fury; and his soups and stews are not such, as a
good method of cooking might produce from the same
materials. Fuel is wasted, and the mess is not well
prepared--neither so nutritious, nor so savoury as it
might be.[60]
Supplementing meat with fish was common practice
for soldiers stationed in British North America. Shadrach
Byfield of the 41st Regiment recounts how he was injured on a
fishing party in the winter of 1811-12 while stationed at Fort
George:
I was employed in holding one end of the net, and with
the violence of the wind and the waves I was pulled into
the water from the ice on which I was standing, and came
in contact with the boat, and was almost squeezed to
death between the boat and the ice. I was pulled into
the boat and carried to the barracks very much bruised,
but no bones were broken.[61]
Generally, fish consumption was frowned upon by the military:
"fish is seldom a part of the men's diet... It ought not to be
allowed above twice a week (if it can be prevented) as, unless
used with much pepper, it will be apt to occasion fluxes...fish
is inclined to rapid putrefaction, the worst species of camp
dysentery has been known to accrue from this diet."[62]
When fish was fresh and firm, there was less concern.[63]
With fresh "white fish and black bass"[64]
caught in great abundance from the Niagara River next to Fort
George, concerns over fluxes and dysentery from a fish diet
likely would not have existed at that garrison. In 1801, rope
was provided from Commissariat stores at Fort George for the
soldiers to construct a fishing net.[65]
If fish could not be caught, some regiments like the 100th chose
to purchase it from local markets.[66]
Hunting seems to have been practised by the soldier
adding grouse, pigeons, etc. to his diet.[67]
As well gardens for the soldiers were established at Forts
George and Erie, allowing freshly grown supplements into the
daily diet.[68]
Finally pears, apples, and berries were common fruits available
to the soldier on the Niagara frontier.[69]
Another requisite staple to the soldier's diet was
bread. By 1812, flour for the soldier's bread was being
provided almost exclusively by Canadian farmers. Indeed as
early as 1793 bread made from Canadian flour was being examined
by military officials: "Royal Artillery reports according to
orders that the bread made from the Canada flour is better than
what they have received for some time past and is good and
wholesome."[70]
One officer of the 4th Regiment dared to proclaim that it was
"better than any he has seen issued to the troops."[71]
At Fort George, the troops were not the only recipients of the
fine flour of Upper Canada. In 1808, mice damaged over 500
pounds of flour at that garrison alone.[72]
As with the supply of meat, the War of 1812 seriously hampered
flour production and additional provisions had to be secured
from the United States. The general regulations established by
the military called for the flour to: "... be made from good,
sound, sweet, and dry English or Foreign wheat, without any
mixture of middlings, or other adulteration whatsoever, but
produced from the whole of the meal as it comes from the mill,
after having been dressed through a twelve-shilling cloth..."[73]
Typically the army had the flour baked into bread by
contractors, but in Canada several regiments chose to have the
mess cooks prepare their own instead. In August 1811, orders
were issued sanctioning this practice and allowing the savings
to be devoted "solely to the comfort and convenience of the Non
Commissioned Officers and Privates."[74]
When soldiers were sent from their mess on detached duties, some
regiments had a regimental baker make bread or biscuits and send
them to the men away from the regiment.[75]
As a result of the orders allowing the men to bake their own
bread, damaged bake ovens at Fort George were recommended to be
repaired as soon as possible so the men could benefit "both in
the quality and quantity of [their] bread."[76]
Material Culture of the Mess in Barracks
The Barracks Department of the British Army had an approved list
of items that were to be supplied to each barracks room in Great
Britain. For British North American garrisons the list of
supplied items was substantially smaller. North American
barrack masters were required to supply only tables, forms or
benches, and iron pots for messing purposes. Provisioning of
other mess utensils, identified for barracks in Great Britain,
was left to the troops who were compensated by an annual mess
allowance from the Barracks Department. Because each corps
acquired many of their mess utensils, the number and pattern of
them would have varied somewhat from regiment to regiment.
Setting of the Table
Each table in the barracks had two benches, or forms, and was
set for dinner with a tablecloth, plates, drinking vessels,
forks, knives and spoons, serving dishes, a flesh fork and a
ladle.
The size and number of tables in barracks
varied from garrison to garrison and from room to room. If
possible the tables were placed in the centre of each barracks
room.[77]
Their most typical length was six feet with width varying
between 2 1/2[78]
and 3 1/2 feet.[79]
It is likely the narrower table was used at Fort George,[80]
enabling eight soldiers to sit comfortably. Each table was
constructed from 3 inch square pine scantling and 2 inch pine
planks.[81]
Each table had two forms for the men to sit on. These
were 6 feet in length, one foot in width and constructed out of
two inch thick pine planks.[82]
For the 3 1/2 feet wide tables, three foot long forms were added
at the table ends.[83]
The tables and benches were washed twice a week and well rubbed
every day;[84]
carving or cutting on them was forbidden.[85]
A clean, coarse[86]
linen tablecloth, integral part of the mess necessaries,[87]
was spread on the table "agreeable to orders"[88]
before dinner.[89]
While it was typical for the tablecloth to be large enough to
touch the floor, a watercolour by Augustus Pugin and Thomas
Rowlandson of the interior of Chelsea Hospital in 1807 depicts
pensioners dining on tablecloths with about one foot of linen
hanging past the table's surface.[90]
It is probable that each cloth was marked with the company
letter to distinguish ownership, especially for washing
purposes. When not in use, the tablecloths were stored with the
extras[91]
in the mess chest.[92]
In 1811 an interesting incident occurred concerning tablecloths
which almost ended in the dismissal of the quartermaster of the
Royal Newfoundland Fencibles. The quartermaster was
courtmartialed for the price of tablecloths and round towels
charged to the men, along with other charges. While tablecloths
of superior quality and nearly the same size were being sold at
7s 10d each in the 8th Regiment and Canadian Fencibles, the
Newfoundland Fencibles Quartermaster was charging his men 14
shillings. The accused was found guilty and was reprimanded by
the court.[93]
The documentation pertaining to this incident also reveals a
slight difference in the tablecloths supplied to each regiment:
the 8th Regiment is specially noted as having tablecloths made
of diaper.[94]
While the 1797 and 1807 Barracks Regulations for the
Army called for each soldier to be supplied with a plate
by the Barracks Department,[95]
regulations established for Canada made no mention of their
issue.[96]
Plates did not appear on any barracks utensil returns for the
forts in Upper Canada. Instead each the men were ordered to
acquire their own plates.[97]
The 1806 mess plan for the 6th Regiment shows the soldiers to be
in possession of tin plates.[98]
Whether all regiments possessed plates made of dipped tin is
uncertain. Each soldier possessed his own fork, knife, and
spoon. Historically, forks and knives were purchased in
pairs either from the regiment's quartermaster or a local
merchant.[99]
Archaeological findings suggests the pattern of cutlery varied
from person to person and that there was no single regimental
pattern. Fiddle pattern pewter soup spoons were most commonly
available to the soldier.
Though not mandatory, it is likely each soldier
brought to the table some type of privately-purchased
drinking vessel. Archaeological finds and period civilian
examples show typical inexpensive cups or mugs possibly owned by
the soldiers to be glass or tin tumblers, tin or earthenware
mugs, and horn cups. With liquor forbidden in barracks,[100]
water was drank by the soldiers at dinner: "Water is the direct
remedy...for quenching the thirst of man and beast...it is a
wholesome beverage; it is the most common, the most convenient,
consequently the best drink for soldiers."[101]
One army medical official suggested: "If water be muddy, the
addition of a small quantity of alum makes it clear; if flat and
mawkish, the addition of vinegar rectifies the imperfection,
rendering it pleasant to the taste and wholesome to the habit."[102]
While many of the forts had a well, Fort George had no water
source within its walls so that "the very great fatigue the want
of water occasions its garrison particularly during the hot
weather."[103]
Though barracks regulations in England called for
two meat dishes for every 12 men,[104]
no meat dishes appear in the barracks schedule for British North
America.[105]
To compensate, the 49th Regiment ordered their messes to be
supplied with large dishes at a portion needed for a table of
eight men.[106]
It is possible these dishes were made of earthenware and used
for serving meals or as a salting tub for meat.[107]
The 49th Regiment required their messes to have flesh forks
at a proportion of one for every two large dishes.[108]
A typical 15 inch, two prong iron flesh fork can be found in an
1801 manufacturer's sample book (Collection of the Essex
Institute).[109]
The 49th Regiment also required their messes to have iron
ladles in the same proportion as the flesh forks.[110]
Other Messing Utensils
A meal for eight men[111]
was prepared in a four gallon[112]
(15.14 litre) iron pot, complete with bail and handle.[113]
Also referred to as boilers[114],
such pots appear to have been of a "similar description"[115]
but not from a fixed pattern, because the Barracks Department in
Canada acquired iron pots from military stores in England,
merchants in Quebec,[116]
and foundries in Canada.[117]
The latter proved to be the cheapest source of supply.[118]
Given that the tables were covered with cloths, it is likely
that these pots, blackened by the fire, would not have appeared
on the table at dinner time. The pot's contents were instead
transferred to large dishes, and brought to the table.[119]
According to Barracks Regulations one tin beer
can was provided by the Barracks Master for every 12 men.[120]
However, North American regulations omitted this item along with
a number of other mess utensils. Shortcomings were expected to
be made up by each regiment as they saw fit. The cost was
reimbursed by the Department in the form of an annual allotment
of utensil money[121]
along with each soldier's mess contributions.
Initially the beer can was for the issue of beer to
the soldiers as the name implies. The size of the ration was
measured by the can. It was essential that the pattern
established by the Barracks Department was followed by the
contactor or the soldiers' due ration would be affected.
Deviations from the established pattern did occur, as in 1796,
at the garrison in Colchester, England:
Through some strange accident or misapprehension of the
quantity of beer which every soldier is allowed, the tin
cans contained less than the allotted quantity. The
garrison, consisting of several regiments, was for some
time supplied in this manner. A complaint was at last
made to the visiting captain of one of the regiments,
and by him inserted in his report. The consequence was
that an investigation took place, the utensils were
measured, and the deficiency was established.[122]
Though the cans were replaced, no compensation was given to the
soldiers. In 1800, the supply of beer to the troops was
discontinued, and was replaced with beer money.[123]
This did not result in the removal of the beer can as it
continued to be used as a tin kettle to carry soup or tea to the
barracks, guard, or men at work[124]
for the rest of the 19th century.[125]
It is presumed that the size of the can would serve as a guide
in measuring the soldier's mess portion, similar to its earlier
function with the beer ration.
Each company would have been in possession of a
mess chest for storing utensils, plates, dishes, tablecloths
and cooking frocks of each mess.[126]
Considered a general charge and property of the company, the
cost of the chest was covered by each soldier's annual utensil
allowance of 9 ½ pence[127]
and the men's weekly mess contribution. The mess chests for the
Rifle Corps and 85th Regiment were divided into separate
compartments for each mess.[128]
The chest was most likely painted Ordnance blue,[129]
and marked with the letter of the company, the captain's name,
and the regiment's number.[130]
It is also likely the chest was kept locked, with the key left
in the possession of the company pay sergeant.
The cooks in the company wore frocks when
attending to their duties, "the purchase and washing of which
are to be a charge upon the subsistence of the men."[131]
When not in use, the cooking frocks were also stored in the mess
chest.[132]
The frock resembled a long, loose shirt made of linen, and was
worn over the cook's fatigue clothing.[133]
One style of British frock had a neck opening that extended down
the rear of the garment in the same way it opened at the front.[134]
This allowed the shirt to be rotated when one side became
soiled, making it very practical for food preparation duties.
Based on illustrations and original examples, however, frocks in
North America seem to have been made with a front opening only.
It is possible a mixture of the two styles were being used by
the regiments in Canada. Since the frocks belonged to the
company, they were probably marked in ink with the company's
letter and possibly the number or letter of the mess to further
identify ownership.
Conclusion
This article has shown that while at times complex, the messing
system protected the soldier from starvation and provided a
communal mechanism to share in the demanding duties of food
preparation. The number and size of company messes varied to
accommodate the facilities of each station, as did the diet of
the troops. While the Commissariat Department attempted to
supply common staples such as beef, pork, peas, and flour, each
locality provided different supplements to the soldier's diet.
In the end, not only did the soldier adopt a Canadian diet, but
acquired utensils for food preparation from Canadian merchants
and tradesmen.
[1].
Refer particularly to: Glen A. Steppler, "A Duty
Troublesome Beyond Measure" Logistical Considerations in
the Canadian War of 1812", (Master's thesis, McGill
University, Montreal, 1974).
[2].
Diet, messing arrangements, and associated material
culture for officers will not be discussed. For
information on these subjects see Donald Graves, "Fort
George Historical Study", Manuscript Report No. 353,
(Parks Canada, 1979); Dennis Carter-Edwards, "The 41st
(the Welsh) Regiment, 1799-1815", (Parks Canada, 1986).
[3].
The British Military Library; or Journal:
Comprehending a Complete Body of Military Knowledge; and
Consisting of Original Communications; With Selections
from the Most Approved and Respectable Foreign Military
Publications. vol. 1. (London, 1799), pp. 423, 478.
[4].
Joseph Donaldson, Recollections of the Eventful Life
of a Soldier. (Edinburgh, 1847), p. 46.
[5].
Regulations for the Rifle Corps, Formed at
Blatchinton Barracks, Under the Command of Colonel
Manningham, August 25th, 1800. (London, 1801), p.
49; Standing Orders and Regulations for the 85th
Light Infantry. (London, 1813), p. 16; Standing
Orders for the Seventy-First Highland and Glasgow
Regiment of Light Infantry of the Line. (London,
1809), pp. 73-74.
[6].
One company of the 74th Regiment in 1815 had their
company divided into two messes or messed as a company,
National Archives of Canada (LAC), Manuscript Group (MG)
24, L 6, vol. 4, Weekly Mess Book of the 1st compy, 74th
Regiment.
[7].
Standing Orders of the 85th Regiment...1813, p.
16.
[8].
LAC, Record Group (RG) 8 Series I, vol. 1203 1/2C, p.
258, Regimental Order, Fredericton, 2 February 1813.
[9].
The British Military Library; or Journal... 1799,
pp. 423, 478.
[10].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 183, Example Mess Return for
a Company in the 100th Regiment, 1806.
[11].
Standing Orders of His Majesty's Tenth Royal Veteran
Battalion of which Lieutenant General Loather Pennington
is Colonel. (Newport, 1807), pp. 11-12; Standing
Orders of the Seventeenth Regiment of Light Dragoons.
(Clonmel, 1804), p. 29.
[12].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 115, p. 263, Extract from the
Instructions of the...Lords of the Treasury to...
Assistant Commissary... in Newfoundland.
[13].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1168, p. 105, Circular Letter, Horse
Guards, 5 November 1811.
[14].
Standing Orders of the 71st Regiment...1809, p.
71.
[15].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 179, Plan of Regimental
Messing in His Majesty's 1st Battn 6th Regiment of Foot,
serving in Canada under the Command of Major Thomas
Carnie, Quebec, 20 May 1806; LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p.
181, Plan of Regimental Messing in His Majesty's 49th
(or Herts) Regiment of Foot, Quebec, 26 May 1806.
[16].
LAC, MG 24, A 1, Brock Papers, 41st Regiment Order Book,
Regimental Order, Quebec 4 August 1805.
[17].
Great Britain, Horse Guards, Adjutant General's Office,
General Regulations and Orders for the Army, 12
August 1811, pp. 300-301.
[18].
LAC, MG 24, L 6, vol. 4, Weekly Mess Book of the 1st
compy, 74th Regiment. This book is wrapped with natural
oznaburg linen,marked with black ink:
1st Compy
W.
Mess Book
74
[19].
LAC, MG 24, A 1, Brock Papers, 41st Regiment Order Book,
Regimental Order, Quebec, 4 August 1805.
[20].
Michael Glover, ed., A Gentleman Volunteer: The
Letters of George Hennell for the Peninsular War,
1812-1813. (London, 1979), p. 93. Letter dated Camp
on the banks of the river Aragon, 29 June 1813.
[21].
Joseph Donaldson, Recollections of the Eventual Life
of a Soldier. (Edinburgh, 1847), p. 52.
[22].
Great Britain, House of Commons, Report from an
Official Committee on Barrack Accommodation for the Army.
(London, 1855), pp. 28, 83-84, 102, 107.
[23].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 223, p. 286, Code Established by
General Royal Highness the Duke of Kent, Commander in
Chief of His Majesty's forces in British North America,
for the purpose of placing the daily duties, parades
etc. of the several corps within his command, on one
General system for their interior duty, to be invariably
observed, by the Commanding Officers of Regiments, Corps
and Detachments, Halifax, 1800.
[24].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 179, Plan of Regimental
Messing in the 6th Regiment, Quebec, 20 May 1806; LAC,
RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 181, Plan of Regimental Messing in
the 49th Regiment, Quebec, 26 May 1806.
[25].
The British Military Library or Journal...1799,
p. 479.
[26].
T.H. McGuffie, ed., Rank and File: The Common Soldier
at Peace and War, 1642-1914. (London, 1964), p.
139. An account from a regimental sergeant-major in
Canada, late eighteenth century.
[27].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 179, Plan of Regimental
Messing in the 6th Regiment, Quebec, 20 May 1806; LAC,
RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 181, Plan of Regimental Messing in
the 49th Regiment, Quebec, 26 May 1806.
[29].
Standing Orders of the 2nd Battalion of the 62nd, or
Wiltshire Regiment. (Cork, 1813), p. 76.
[30].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 107, p. 56, Statement of the Different
Kinds of Rations issued in Canada, 1802; LAC, RG 8 I,
vol. 107, p. 69, Treasury Chambers, London, 28 December
1802; LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1168, p. 4, General Order,
Quebec, 12 September 1811; LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1168, p.
112, General Order, Quebec, 19 March 1812.
[31].
Instructions to Regimental Surgeons, for Regulating
the Concerns of the Sick, and of the Hospital to Which
is Prefixed His Majesty's Warrant for increasing the
Advantages &c. of the Medical Officers of the Army.
(London, 1808), Appendix No. 8.
[33].
The British Military Library or Journal...1799,
p. 479.
[35].
D. Balkwill & S. Cumbaa, "Salt Pork and Beef Again? The
Diet of French and British Soldiers at the Casemate,
Bastion St. Louis, Quebec", Research Bulletin,
No. 252. (Parks Canada, February 1987), pp. 12, 19.
[36].
Joseph Donaldson, Recollections of the Eventual Life
of a Soldier. (Edinburgh, 1847), p. 351.
[37].
Great Britain, War Office, A Collection of Orders,
Regulations, and Instructions, for the Army on Matters
of Finance and Points of Discipline Immediately
Connected Therewith. vol. 2, (London, 1 August
1815), p. 172, "Form of Contract for supplying Meat to
His Majesty's Land Forces in Cantonments, Quarters, and
Barracks".
[39].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 109, p. 154, John Gill to Military
Secretary Green, York, 2 November 1805.
[40].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 108, p. 28, Sullivan to Addington,
Downing Street, London, 26 May 1808.
[41].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 107, p. 154, Hamilton to Coffin,
Queenston, 26 March 1801.
[42].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 107, p. 156, Coffin to Craigie, Fort
George, 28 May 1801.
[43].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 108, p. 116, Craigie to McGill,
Quebec, 16 May 1803.
[44].
Great Britain, House of Commons, The Eighteenth
Report of the Commissioners of Military Enquiry; appted
by Act of 45th GEO III Chap. 47th: Office of the
Commissariat. (London, 20 March 1812) p. 97.
[45].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 108, p. 107, Remarks on the subject of
salted provisions and peas in Upper and Lower Canada,
Kingston, 4 May 1803.
[47].
Fernand Ouellet in his book Lower Canada, 1791-1840
debates there was poor harvests resulting in an
economic crisis between 1802 and 1812. This is the
based on the decline of wheat exports from Lower
Canada. This conclusion is challenged by G. Paquet and
J.-P. Wallot in "The Agricultural Crisis in Lower
Canada, 1802-1812; mise au point. A Response to T.J.A.
Legoff," (Canadian Historical Review (1975), pp.
134-168) were they debate the wheat export decline was
the result of decline in export markets.
[48].
Great Britain, House of Commons, The Eighteenth
Report of the Commissioners of Military Enquiry; appted
by Act of 45th GEO III Chap. 47th: Office of the
Commissariat. (London, 20 March 1812), p. 97.
[49].
Michelle Guitard, The Militia of the Battle of the
Chateauguay: A Social History. (Parks Canada, 1983),
p. 38.
[50].
United States, St. Lawrence University, John Ross to
David Parish, Ogdensburgh, 23 July 1813. Quoted in Paul
Fortier, "A line on a frontier for the defence of a
wilderness: British and American relations on the upper
St. Lawrence River during the American War of 1812",
(unpublished paper, University of Toronto, August 1980).
[51].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 108, p. 113, Account of the Expense of
a Barrel of Pork, Kingston, 4 May 1803.
[52].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 112, pp. 70-74, McGill to Amherstburg,
Fort George, and Fort Erie, York, 17 February 1807.
[53].
Quebec Gazette, 28 June 1804. Reproduced in
Claudette Lacelle, "The British Garrison in Quebec City
as Described in Newspapers from 1764 to 1840",
History and Archaeology No. 23, (Parks Canada,
1979), p. 65.
[54].
D. Balkwill and S. Cumbaa, "Salt Pork and Beef Again?
The Diet of French and British Soldiers at the Casemate,
Bastion St. Louis, Quebec", Research Bulletin.
No. 252, (Parks Canada, February 1987), p. 11.
[55].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 109, p. 28, Craigie to Green, Quebec,
29 June 1804.
[56].
The British Military Library or Journal...1799,
p. 478.
[57].
John Cooper, Rough Notes of Seven Campaigns.
(London, 1869), p. 147.
[58].
The British Military Library or Journal...1799,
p. 478.
[60].
Robert Jackson, A systematic view of the formation,
discipline, and economy of armies. (London, 1804),
p. 234.
[61].
John Gellner, ed., Recollections of the War of 1812:
Three Eyewitnesses' Accounts. (Toronto, 1964), p. 4.
[62].
The British Military Library or Journal...1799,
p. 478.
[64].
George Heriot, Travels Through the Canadas.
(London, 1807), p. 151.
[65].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1210, p. 172, Green to Grant, 27
October 1802. Cited in Dennis Carter-Edwards, "The 41st
(the Welsh) Regiment, 1799-1815", (Parks Canada, 1986).
[66].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 183, Example Mess Return for
a Company of the 100th Regiment, 1806.
[67].
LAC, MG 19, A 39, Duncan Clark Papers, Order Book of the
Incorporated Militia, 1813-14, p. 93, District Order,
Prescott, 2 July 1813; p. 100, Garrison Order, Prescott,
17 July 1813.
[68].
Dennis Carter-Edwards, "The 41st (the Welsh) Regiment,
1799-1815" (Parks Canada, 1986).
[69].
While marching between Niagara and the Detroit frontier,
one militiaman noted jumping a fence and filling his
haversack with pears, LAC, MG 24, G 10, Diary of a
Volunteer, York Militia.
[70].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 109, p. 44, Report on Canada flour,
1793.
[72].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 112, p. 179, Report of a Board of
Survey, Fort George, 25 July 1808.
[73].
Great Britain, War Office, A Collection of Orders,
Regulations, and Instructions, for the Army; on Matters
of Finance and Points of Discipline Immediately
Connected Therewith. vol. 2, (London, 1 August
1815), p. 195, "Form of Contract for supplying Bread to
His Majesty's Land Forces in Cantonments, Quarters, and
Barracks".
[74].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1168, p. 1f, General Order, Halifax, 9
August 1811.
[75].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 113, pp. 201-203, Sheaffe to Military
Secretary, Three Rivers, 2 November 1810.
[76].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 911, pp. 50-51, Proctor to Evans, Fort
George, 18 September 1811. Quoted in Dennis
Carter-Edwards, "The 41st (the Welsh) Regiment,
1799-1815", (Parks Canada, 1986).
[77].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1200, pp. 8-10, General Order,
Headquarters, Halifax, 9 March 1800.
[78].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1203 1/2AA, p. 100, Requisition for
material required for tables, forms, and benches for 360
men of the 4th Division, Fort George, 14 November 1812.
[79].
"Wanted for the use of the Barracks Department at this
place... 100 Barracks Tables...", Kingston Gazette,
1 October 1814.
[80].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1203 1/2AA, p. 100, Requisition for
material required for tables, forms, and benches for 360
men of the 4th Division, Fort George, 14 November 1812.
[82].
"Wanted for the use of the Barracks Department at this
place...200 forms", Kingston Gazette, 1 October
1814.
[84].
Standing Orders of the 62nd Regiment...1813, p.
77.
[85].
Standing Orders of His Majesty's 29th or
Worchestershire Regiment of Foot. (London, 1812), p.
61.
[86].
"Standing Orders for the 43rd Regiment, 1795", 43rd
and 52nd Chronicle, 1895, p. 168.
[87].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1168, p. 68, General Order, Quebec, 19
December 1811.
[88].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 223, p. 286, Code Established by
General Royal Highness the Duke of Kent, Commander in
Chief of His Majesty's forces in British North America,
for the purpose of placing the daily duties, parades
etc. of the several corps within his command, on one
General system for their interior duty, to be invariably
observed, by the Commanding Officers of Regiments, Corps
and Detachments, Halifax, 1800.
[89].
Standing Orders of the 12th Regiment of Foot.
(London, January 1817), p. 35.
[90].
Fiona St. Aubyn, ed. Ackermann's Illustrated London.
(London, 1985), p. 150. A collection of watercolours by
Augustus Pugin and Thomas Rowlandson.
[91].
Each mess had two tablecloths, with a mess consisting of
approximately twelve men, Standing Orders of the 71st
Regiment...1809, p. 74; Regulations for the Rifle
Corps...1801, p. 49; Standing Orders of the 12th
Regiment...1817, p. 35; Standing Orders of the
85th Regiment...1813, p. 17.
[92].
Standing Orders of the 85th Regiment...1813, p.
17; Regulations for the Rifle Corps...1801, p.
49.
[93].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1168, p. 69-72, General Orders,
Quebec, 19 December 1811.
[94].
Ibid. "Diaper. A kind of dimity; a linen
fabric... woven with lines crossing to form diamonds
with the spaces variously filled with lines, a dot, or a
leaf. The name is derived from the place of its first
fame, Ypres in Flanders. Twill weave." Florence M.
Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870. (New
York, 1984), p. 218.
[95].
Great Britain, House of Commons, The Second Report of
the Commissioners of Military Inquiry: Establishment of
the Barracks Office. (London, 1806), Barracks
Regulations, 1797; PRO, WO 26/40, p. 500, Barracks
Regulations, London, 5 December 1807.
[96].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1209, p. 46a, Regulations for
Barracks, By His Excellency Robert Prescott, Quebec, 25
October 1800.
[97].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 181, Plan of Regimental
Messing in the 49th Regiment, Quebec, 23 May 1806.
[98].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 179, Plan of Regimental
Messing in the 6th Regiment, Quebec, 20 May 1806.
[99].
United States National Archives, RG 98, no. 531, Account
Book of the British 49th Regiment, G company, 1811-12;
LAC, MG 23, K 1, vol. 16, Fraser Papers, Voltigeurs Day
Book, 1814.
[100].
PRO, WO 3/17, p. 61, Memorandum, Horse Guards, 14
February 1797.
[101].
Robert Jackson, A systematic view...1804, p. 236.
[103].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 514, pp. 91-92, Procter to Green, 5
April 1807. Quoted in Dennis Carter-Edwards, "The 41st
(the Welsh) Regiment, 1799-1815" (Parks Canada, 1986).
[104].
Great Britain, Public Records Office (PRO), WO 26/40, p.
500, Regulations for Barracks, London, 5 December 1807.
[105].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1209, p. 46a, Regulations for
Barracks. By His Excellency Robert Prescott, Quebec, 25
October 1800.
[106].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 181, Plan for messing in the
49th Regiment, Quebec, 23 May 1806.
[107].
The 40th Regiment required each barrack room to have a
earthen crock for salt meat, Standing Orders for the
Fortieth Regiment. (Margate, 1800), p. 49.
[108].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 181, Plan for messing in the
49th Regiment, Quebec, 23 May 1806.
[109].
Essex Institute, Sample Book, 672 2 S19, vol. 15, 1801.
[110].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 181, Plan for messing in the
49th Regiment, Quebec, 23 May 1806.
[111].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1209, p. 46a, Regulations for
Barracks. By His Excellency Robert Prescott, Quebec, 25
October 1800.
[112].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 111, p. 91, Certificate, Quebec, 21
March 1807. The old English imperial gallon is equal to
today's US gallon.
[113].
Ibid.; LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 548, p. 50, Abstract of
Proposals received from the following Persons for
Furnishing Barrack Utensils for Government, Quebec, 15
February 1808.
[114].
PRO, WO 26/40, p. 499, Regulations for Barracks, London,
5 December 1807.
[115].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 111, p. 91, Certificate, Quebec, 21
March 1807.
[116].
Messrs. McCord & Black, Ibid.
[117].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 548, p. 50, Abstract of Proposals...,
Quebec, 15 February 1808.
[118].
Monro & Bell were contracted to make the pots for 7s
9d. Pots imported from England generally cost 10s 6d,
Ibid.
[119].
LAC, RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 181, Plan of Regimental
Messing in the 49th Regiment, Quebec, 23 May 1806.
[120].
PRO, WO 26/40, p. 500, Regulations for Barracks, London,
5 December 1807.
[121].
LAC, MG 23, G II, 17, Prescott Papers, vol. 21, p. 232,
Regulations for Barracks, Quebec, 25 December 1796.
[122].
Charles James, The Regimental Companion, Vol. 2,
(London, 1802), p. 90.
[123].
A Collection of Orders, Regulations, and
Instructions, for the Army; on Matters of Finance, and
Points of Discipline Immediately Connected Therewith.
(London, 1807), p. 66, Warrant granting an allowance in
lieu of small beer to the troops... 17 March 1800.
[124].Trench-Gascoigne,
F.R.T., ed., "Extracts from the Standing Orders of the
Garrison of Gibraltar, 1803", Journal of the Society
for Army Historical Research, vol. 3, p. 183; LAC,
RG 8 I, vol. 1213, p. 181, Mess Plan for the 49th
Regiment, Quebec, 23 May 1806.
[125].
Some watercolours depicting the cans include: C.B.
Newhouse, 1835, Newhouse's Military Incidents,
"No. 2, The Dinner Round, Light Company, 19th Foot,"
Anne S.K. Brown Collection, Brown University,
Providence, Rhodes Island; W. Belch, 5 July 1838, The
Grand Military Feast in Honour of the Queen's
Coronation, Woolwich, Anne S.K. Brown Collection,
Brown University, Providence, Rhodes Island.
[126].
Messing utensils for the kitchen and table were not
supplied by the Barracks Department. Instead an annual
allowance was given to each soldier to purchase the said
items, LAC, MG 23, G II, 17, Prescott Papers, vol. 21,
p. 232, Regulations for Barracks, Quebec, 25 December
1796.
[128].
Regulations for the Rifle Corps...1801, p. 49;
Standing Orders for the 85th Regiment...1813, p. 17.
[129].
43rd or Argyll and Bute Regiment of Militia Standing
Orders. (Edinburgh, 1812), p. 22.
[130].
Standing Orders of the 29th Regiment...1812, p.
57.
[131].
LAC, MG 24, A 12, Dalhousie Papers, vol. 4, Standing
Orders of the 26th or Cameron Regiment of Foot, Section
III, 6.
[132].
Regulations for the Rifle Corps...1801, p. 49;
Standing Orders for the 85th Regiment...1813, p. 49.
[133].
There are a number of illustration of civilians wearing
frocks while working. See William Pyne, Microcosm.
(London, 1806), Market Pl. 1, Dairy Pl. 1 & 2, Shepherds
Pl. 1; William Pyne, Pyne's British Costumes.
(Ware, 1989), Pl. XXXIX, Water Cart.
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